CLOCHES, COLD FRAMES AND HOT BEDS

by Glenn Davis, UCCE Master Gardener, El Dorado County

December 2002

 

     In the old days gardeners used “cloches,” bell shaped jars, to provide the necessary heat to start seeds and seedlings early in the year. They lacked any ventilation exhaust system and were time consuming to monitor; in fact they had to be checked daily to insure that the plants inside were surviving. We’ve upgraded our garden practices and now we use hot-caps, wall-o- water, row covers, plastic milk cartons, soft drink or juice bottles or any semi-rigid container that will allow sun penetration, soil heating and ventilation. All of these help the gardener to extend the garden season, either by warming the soil early in the spring or by keeping the soil warm later in the fall.

     Extending the season became big business when growers found they could provide our colder climates with produce during the winter by building large greenhouses. This beat the cost of transportation but required a lot of manual assistance to maintain the correct environment. Well, along came thermostatic climate control and automatic watering systems. It was, however, impractical for home gardeners, they needed something smaller and easier to maintain.

     The next obvious step was a small greenhouse, impractical for a homeowner with a small backyard. It’s my guess that someone thought of taking advantage of the insulation properties of soil and that with an old window they developed what is known in the garden world as a “cold frame.”

     Cold frames are boxes, made out of redwood, set into the ground a few inches and covered with glass.  The box is usually about 3 x 6 feet and the class cover is an old window, on hinges, to allow it to be opened for ventilation. While glass, with its rigidity, is preferred, plastic, fiberglass or Plexiglas will do. Usually the box faces south, but southeast or southwest will work. The top of the box to the north is about 16 inches high and the bottom facing south is about 12 inches high.  Since ventilation is so important there should be something available to prop open the window.

     Some cold frames are constructed to grow plants in the box, while others are constructed to hold containers.  The latter seems to be better for plant movement and soil replacement. If the direct sun is too intense then some shade cloth or lathe can be placed over the glass to protect the tender plants in the bed. Cold frames can also be used to harden-off young seedlings before they are placed in the garden.     

     Cold frames should be located on level ground and in a wind protected area if possible. The heating will increase if the frame is near a building where the sun can reflect into it. If that placement is possible then careful water monitoring is essential. Manufacturers have developed portable cold frames; these are usually made out of plastic and can be folded up and stored during the summer. They are not as well insulated as the permanent models, but they can be moved around to take advantage of solar heating.

     It was only a matter of time until someone thought of a permanent heating source in the cold frame. When this was developed the cold frame became a “hot bed,” and the source of heat was from below the plants.  Initially the heat was generated by layers of fresh horse manure in the bottom of the frame; the heat generated was inconsistent and the frame needed to be monitored constantly to insure the survival of the plants.

     Then along came the heating cable, a relatively cheap method of providing constant, non-variable heat to the bottom of the hot bed. Heating cables have built in thermostats, set to provide the correct soil heat for most plants. If you use a heating cable, follow the installation instructions carefully to make sure you don’t accidentally puncture the heating cable.

     It’s a big jump from the historical cloches to a modern cable-heated bed and maybe the next move will be a solar powered heating cable, we’ll see.

     For more information on this subject or any garden problem, contact the El Dorado County Master Gardeners, 621-5512, Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to Noon.