BASIC SPUDS-AN AMERICAN STAPLE

by Glenn Davis, UCCE Master Gardener, El Dorado County

February 2002

 

     Potatoes, discovered in South America, taken to Europe, cultivated there and on to North America to become one of our favorite foods.  Some say if you had only one vegetable to survive on, the best would be the potato.

     Potatoes are produced on underground stems so they need a lot of room in the garden.  They also do best in an acidic soil that drains well and has a lot of compost or well-cured manure mixed in.  Potatoes like the sun but the tubers themselves should not be exposed; if they are the potato will turn green and become toxic.

     Potatoes can be started a couple of weeks before the last frost, usually as early as the ground can be worked.  They can be damaged by frost, so be a little careful about trying to get them in too early; our last frost date is usually about the middle of April, higher elevations are later (about a week per thousand feet).  There are a lot of varieties; most range from white to yellow with a few exotic others thrown in.  Almost any nursery or garden catalog will have them available.  Make sure they are certified “disease free” and are “seed” potatoes when you make your purchase.  About two pounds of seed potatoes will produce 50 pounds of potatoes.  Potatoes purchased in the grocery store are usually treated to prevent sprouting. 

     After you purchase your potatoes, divide them into parts about 1 l/2 inches wide with at least two sprouts on each piece.  Put them in a cool dry area and give them a day or so to form a covering over the cut portion.  They can be planted in rows, hills, beds or containers.  It takes a potato about three months to reach maturity, however, there are some varieties than can be harvested earlier.  If you plant them in rows, the spacing between the rows should be about 3 feet and between each plant about 12 inches.

     The suggested planting depth is about 4 inches; the usual process is a trench about 6-8 inches wide and about a foot deep with the potatoes in the bottom and covered with about 4 inches of soil.  If you have a really heavy soil it will help to mix a lot of compost into the bottom of the trench before putting the potatoes in.  Usually the compost is enough nutrition, but if you feel a boost is necessary a fertilizer such as 5-10-10 mixed into the bottom can be helpful.  High nitrogen fertilizers produce a lot of great greenery but do little for the potatoes beneath ground; in fact high nitrogen fertilizer can result in smaller potatoes at harvest time.  If you are growing your potatoes in a row, fertilize down the middle of the row. As the potato plant emerges start filling in the trench until it has reached the normal garden level or higher.  Some gardeners continue to mound compost or soil around the plant until it starts to bloom; if you go this route make sure there is about 4 inches of potato plant available above the mound to feed the growing potatoes below.

     You can start your harvest when the blossoms fade and a full harvest when the plant deteriorates.  Cut off the plant at ground level and leave the potatoes in the ground for a week or so.  Harvest by carefully spading around the outside of the plant and tipping the potatoes up.  Potatoes with a spade puncture cannot be stored successfully, so use those first.  They should be stored in a dry, cool (about 40 degrees), sun-free location.

     Potatoes can be grown in plastic garbage cans, round wire enclosures, stacked tires and just mounded earth.  Start them, in the same manner mentioned above, about an inch or so underground and as they grow add compost, hay, or leaves.  The new potatoes will grow well in these mediums, in fact pine needles, with their acidic nature, are an excellent medium.  If you are growing them in tires, as each tire fills with your growing medium add another tire until the plant starts to set flowers.  To harvest your potatoes simply turn over the container.

     In addition to potatoes there are a lot of other great spring vegetables out there; for information on these or on any garden problem contact the El Dorado County Master Gardeners, 621-5512, Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to Noon.