SELECTING & GROWING LAVENDER
Reesa Nelson
UCCE / El Dorado County Master Gardener

Lavandula, commonly known as Lavender, is a wonderful, fragrant, shrubby perennial that has been a gardening favorite for centuries, and for good reason.  These plants grow well in mountain climates, inland valleys or deserts; they require minimal water and little or no fertilizer; and most attract bees and butterflies.  Success in growing lavenders is almost guaranteed if their main requirements are met, which include well-drained soil, full sun and summers low in humidity.  Additionally, give them good air circulation and when mulching, be sure to keep the mulch several inches away from the main stems of the plant.  Most references suggest using pea gravel or decomposed granite as a mulch, but I have grown several varieties of lavender and mulched all of them with shredded cedar or other organic mulches; none of my plants had any problems.  Plant lavenders in spring or fall and give them infrequent, but deep watering during warmer weather.  Once established, lavenders tend to be drought tolerant, but they will grow and bloom better with some watering. For most of us, the lavenders we're most familiar with have grey or grey-green foliage.  However, many lavenders have green foliage although this is not as common in our climate zones.  Despite its name that would indicate blooms of a pale bluish-purple, lavender flowers can also be white, cream, yellow, pink or salmon depending on the selection.

While some lavenders can be grown from seed, this method is not recommended.  Some of the most popular like Lavandula x intermedia (Lavandin or Hedge Lavender) are sterile and must be grown from cuttings.  When seeds of other varieties can be found, germination is painfully slow, causing a lot of the seeds to rot before sprouting.  When they do sprout, it usually takes three or more months before the seedlings are large enough to be transplanted into the garden.  Only plants grown from cuttings are truly uniform though, which is particularly important in some types of plantings; for example, a consistent-looking hedge or border.  Also keep in mind that lavenders take about three years to mature, so pay attention to their ultimate height and width as you plan your garden.

When choosing lavenders, give some thought to the role you want them to play in your landscape.  Do you want your lavender mainly for flowers?  Do you desire them for scent such as in sachets or potpourri?  Do you want lavender for flavoring food such as ice cream, pastries or salads?  The fresh flowers of English or Hedge Lavender are excellent for culinary use.  However, other lavender species contain harmful chemicals and these should not be ingested.           

The Spanish and Yellow Lavenders generally finish blooming after four or five weeks while the others mentioned above continue to bloom a week or two longer.  Woolly Lavender, with its deep violet blooms and near-white woolly leaves, starts blooming in early summer and continues into late summer.  These do best with a good pruning four or five weeks into the bloom cycle to keep them neat and to encourage a second bloom in late summer or early fall.  I must confess that the Spanish Lavenders in my garden have never had more than a light shearing (and some years no shearing), and they are now bursting with blooms, although they don't always rebloom in the fall unless sheared. 

Lavandula augustifolia (English Lavender) despite its common name, is native to the mountains of southern Europe, not England.  These are the hardiest lavenders and can be grown in Sunset climate zones 2-24.  They include the 'Alba', 'Munstead', 'Hidcote', 'Nana' and 'Jean Davis' cultivars, among others.  Most varieties are low growing and form mounds of foliage 8-24" high and wide.  They typically bloom from early to mid summer and some repeat bloom in late summer or fall.

The last group to bloom are the sterile hybrids, Lavandula x intermedia (Hedge Lavender), typically blooming from mid to late summer.  These are the lavenders that have long been used in the perfume and soap industries, the 'Provence' and 'Grosso' cultivars being the best known, but  'Albrialii' is also extremely fragrant and excellent for drying; it can usually only be found in specialty nurseries.  These lavenders grow 2-1/2' high and 3' wide with grey-green foliage and dark violet-blue blossoms.

Lavenders are so versatile that they look wonderful in any number of combinations.  For easy care and good looks, plant lavenders in borders with plants that want similar cultural conditions, such as Helianthemum (Sunrose), Nepeta (Catmint), Rosemary, Santolina (Lavender Cotton) and Verbena.  Lower growing lavenders also look lovely as an edging in herb gardens.  Another idea, and one I'm currently implementing in my own landscape, is an all-lavender garden.  I think lavenders belong in everyone's garden and if you haven't planted any yet, do so . . . they are one of the great joys of gardening!

           
The Master Gardeners are giving a free class on "Lavender Selection & Care" tomorrow, May 13, starting at 9 a.m. in the Ag Extension Office at 311 Fair Lane, Placerville.  It will cover all aspects of growing lavenders, including proper soil preparation, irrigation and the best lavenders to grow in our area.  If you can't attend, but have some questions on this or any other home gardening topic, call our office at 621-5512 Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to noon; walk-ins are also welcome at the above address.