COTTAGE GARDEN STYLE

BY UCCE/EL DORADO MASTER GARDENER EVE KEENER

Publication Date: March 4, 2005

The cottage garden style of landscape evolved from medieval times when English peasants lived in small cottages owned by the Lord of the Manor. Traditionally, the cottage was at the foot of a long, narrow piece of land and was often enclosed by hedges or fences to keep grazing animals out. The peasants used every inch of land available to grow crops, including cabbage, peas, onions and fruits such as apples and berries. At this time no flowers were grown but some herbs, such as mint and sage, would flourish.

After King Henry VIII closed the monasteries at the beginning of the Reformation in England, the country folk could no longer rely on the monks, who had grown large medicinal gardens. As a result, they began to grow their own medicines: roses, achillea, stachys, and other flowers started to appear in their gardens.

During the Renaissance much exploration brought new plants to England. More space was given to beautiful flowers and the cottage garden as we know it today was born.

This style usually has a garden path between the front gate and the front door, and every other space is taken over by plants and flowers of every kind. There is no lawn and no apparent plan to the garden. Flowers, vegetables, shrubs, and trees appear to be planted in a haphazard manner, with very close spacing and no open soil to be seen. Gardens are often embellished with arbors, espaliered trees, bird baths and houses, and found art. The style calls for natural things, such a clay pots and stone troughs. Branches from pruned trees are often used to support tall plants; they are placed in early spring and the plants grow up through them and hide them. The only rule is that the gardener needs to be able to get to edible plants to harvest them so stepping stones or small footpaths may meander through the space.

This style of gardening can be easily adapted to California conditions. If the garden is part of a larger landscape, it should be fenced or divided by hedges or large plantings with a transition through a gate or arbor or perhaps a gap in the hedge. Although the garden looks unplanned, careful planning is necessary so as not to have a wild, unkempt look. Plants should be grouped according to their light and water needs, just as in any garden. Planting is very close, so improved soil is a must. Amend liberally with organic matter before planting. Plant at least two or three of the same plant together, particularly smaller perennials, so that a big splash is made when they are in bloom. Plant vegetables where they are easy to see and harvest and add the herbs you use fairly close to the path so that picking a sprig at dinner time is a snap.

Try to plan the plantings so that you have bloom throughout the growing season. Spring bulbs can be planted under deciduous fruit trees; remember, no piece of land is wasted! Arrange taller plants toward the back of the garden and place spiky plants to add dimension. Plant clematis and climbing roses together. The clematis will wind through the rose and create a delightful vignette.

Of course, in England it is not normally necessary to water the landscape but in California that is not an option. A drip system of some kind is best. I would recommend the soaker hoses that are made from recycled tires. Lay the hose along the beds about two feet apart, depending on your soil type, and then plant the garden among the hoses. Mulch your beds to hide the hose and keep the soil cool, moist and weed free until the plants get big enough to shade the soil completely. The soakers can be hooked up to an automatic system or can be run manually, in which case I would recommend a mechanical timer between the faucet and the hose.

Close planting can make diseases such a mildew and crown rots more likely, so check your garden often to nip problems in the bud. Don’t overwater and do all irrigation in the early morning to allow plants to dry out before nightfall. Allow for the ultimate size of permanent plantings to avoid constant pruning. This means that for a year of so you will be able to see soil between plants, but this can be remedied by filling the space with annuals or short lived perennials. Make sure your main path is wide enough because as plants mature they will naturally fall across the path, which is part of the charm of this style. Train vines, such as sweet peas, nasturtiums, green beans, cucumbers, etc. on trellises or tripods and try to find attractive cages for your tomatoes.