Fall and Winter Gardening

By Cathy Ziaja

U.C. Cooperative Extension, El Dorado Co. Master Gardeners

Publication Date: July 30, 2004

Now that your summer gardens are in full swing, you are probably enjoying some of those wonderful vegetables. While savoring the flavor of a tomato, you might start thinking of, should I say it, your next garden. No, I’m not talking about for next summer, but for this fall and winter. While some areas will be just too cold, many areas in our county are suitable for year-round vegetable gardening.

As summer vegetable plants peak and start declining, the thought of cool season vegetables should come to mind. Seeds of Oriental cabbages and cole crops (cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli to name a few) should be started in early August. As we all know, temperatures in late summer and early fall can be extremely hot. So, these cool season plants will need some protection. By using shade fabric row covers, sunlight and heat can be reduced and with adequate moisture, seedlings should grow nicely. Transplants can be planted in late August to early September. Transplanted early, the plants will be large and healthy by the time cold weather arrives. Depending on the variety planted, some will produce in late fall while others will over winter and be ready for harvest in the spring.

As fall progresses, spinach, peas, garlic and onions can be started in mid October to mid November. As with lettuce, protect spinach and pea plants from harsh weather. Harvest will follow in early spring. Onions and garlic will not be harvested until mid summer.

Sure there may be frost and snow, but most winter crops can handle the cold; in fact, it is good for them. If the weather becomes too harsh, floating row covers and cold frames can help protect plants. An advantage of growing winter crops is the fact that cold weather actually helps control many plant pests.

The most common pests are cabbage loopers and aphids and tend to appear in warmer weather. A strong spray of water can rid you of aphids, but be persistent. For those little green worms, try picking them off or try an organic spray that is directed against only the worms, such as a BT (bacillus thuringiensis).