Bulbs

By: Kit Smith

U.C. Cooperative Extension/El Dorado Master Gardener

Publication Date: October 15, 2004

Faith - it is holding a bulb in your hand and envisioning the future yellow trumpet of the daffodil or vibrant colors of the tuberous begonia. Here is how you can get the most out of your bulbs.

Bulbs are highly adapted and developed storage mechanisms that nourish themselves and live and thrive in all environments. Their food and flower are right there in the palm of your hand and will grow and flower the first year.

Technically, the general classification of bulbs includes true bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. True bulbs are tulips, hyacinths and narcissus; they are the complete or almost complete plant embryos. Corms, like crocuses, freesia and gladiolus, are underground stem bases which swell and solidify with nutrients during growth. They last only one year as they are completely expended during growth, but new corms form on the auxiliary buds next to or on top of the old corm. Tubers, such as glaxonius, tuberous begonias, dahlias and cyclamen, are short and fat solid masses of storage tissues with buds. Rhizomes are thickened stems which grow horizontally partially or entirely underground like agapanthus, canna and calla. The lily of the valley sends up pips, which have their own roots.

Bulbs prefer well-draining soil which holds a certain amount of moisture. To plant bulbs, condition your soil 8 inches deep well in advance with compost or planting mix. Chill last year’s bulbs 6-20 weeks, read and follow the directions carefully, then gradually acclimate them at 50 to 60 degrees for a few days. New bulbs have been chilled already. Plant spring blooming bulbs in September – October and summer and fall blooming bulbs in April – May. Give the fall-planted bulbs enough time to put out their roots before the first frost.

Plant your bulbs as deep as 3 times the bulb’s diameter measuring from the bulb’s shoulder, not the tip. Placement too deep will cause your bulb to exhaust itself trying to reach the surface; too shallow may cause your bulbs to heave out of the soil and be exposed during cold weather. Mulch and water thoroughly.

Fertilize with 5-10-5 three times: at planting if you did not properly prepare your soil, when the sprout emerges and when the flower dies. This last time, your bulb will especially like some phosphorous and potassium.

Enjoy the reward for your faith, the bulb’s beautiful and fragrant blooms. You can remove the spent flower to prevent seed formation, but leave the leaves alone. Let them naturally photosynthesize to replenish the bulb’s depleted food supply to store enough food in the bulb to put on another beautiful show next year. You may remove the foliage when the leaves are yellow (not just withered) and pull apart easily. Some tender bulbs need to be dug up, dried and replanted next year.

Deer do not like narcissus, tuberous begonia, crocus, cyclamen, iris, dahlia, freesia, daylily or ixia. That means these bulbs can be nice additions to the unfenced portions of your landscape.